It is heavier and less flexible compared to the Rogeti TSE adapter. The other one is the Sunway TS-E24 bracket. It is not as flexible and requires a screwdriver to change the TS-E lenses. It is also much more expensive. It is a piece of aluminum weighing 370 grams. I have found two alternatives on the internet.
Depth of field scale is almost completely obstructed.The focal distance scale is not easy to see.3/8" and 1/4" threaded screw hole provided.Usable for the TS-E 17mm and the TS-E 24mm.Holder for smartphone or gray card to block sunlight.High resistance hinge, stays open for easy assembly.Rubber holders to prevent damage to the lens.Four spirit bubbles for every possible orientation.For landscape photography, it gives a nice addition when you already use tilt-shift lenses. But I definitely will try soon to see how it turns out.
I haven't used it in real estate yet since 24mm and 17mm work well for most of the houses I have to photograph. For landscapes, this is not a real problem, but for real estate, it may give a strange look to the image. But at the same time, it will stretch the sides of the image. Compared to a nodal slide, there is no rotation, and it will prevent the typical curvature of horizontal lines in panoramas. It makes panoramic photos very easy without the risk of parallax. But I decided to give it a try and ordered one. I had my doubts about this Rogeti TSE frame, especially concerning the price. If you want to use the tilt function of the lens for maximum depth of field, you need to remove the TSE frame. Although with a bit of practice, you get to know the right distance for a hyperfocal setting. This is the biggest problem with the frame, I think. Setting the hyperfocal distance becomes a bit tricky. I needed to make sure the distance was set correctly, because the depth of field scale is barely visible.
#Cateye chevy duramax stock iso#
A horizontal panorama during morning twilight at low tide (EOS 5D Mark IV TS-E 24mm II, ISO 100, f/8, 1/6 s, Kase hard GND0.9 CPL) I wish I could find the pictures, I actually drove it around for a couple weeks on the chrome H2s and 315s with the front stock height and the rear lowered 3" with no rubbing before raising it back up.A horizontal panorama of Fort Mahon, at the French Opal Coast. The silver wheels I eventually painted black, and then I bought a chrome set that came with the 315s still mounted on them. Na, those were only two different sets of wheels in those pictures I posted, all were H2 stock takeoff wheels. You need between 5" and 6" of backspacing on no more than an 8.5" wide set of wheels to keep from rubbing with anything larger than a 33" on these trucks. Other options are the 07.5+ 17" GM wheels that are 17x7.5 with about 5.5" backspacing, or the Dodge 17x8 wheels with about 6" of backspacing (these will not rub the fenders or bumper, but may get slight rubbing on the frame) The stock 16圆.5" wheels have roughly 5" of backspacing, the Hummer H2 wheels in all of my pictures of my 03 GMC are 17x8.5 with 5.5" of backspacing.
Wheel backspacing makes all the difference. I went up to 315s on those stock wheels on that truck as well with no rubbing anywhere but trimming 1/4" off that plastic valence on the bumper. Both of us leveled them to the same height, but I had 285s on stock wheels with no rubbing at all, he had 285s on 16x8s with 4.5" backspacing that rubbed the back of the fender and the plastic valence. Click to expand.Backspacing is what hurts you, my brother and I had identical 2001 2500HDs.
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